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Although the duo no longer do ice-cream sandwiches, they offer a scoop on their chewy homemade cookies. Jones gained a cult following for her decadent ice-cream sandwiches after moving here from Paris in 2013 today, she and her partner, Jan Diekmann, have a permanent location in the Schöneberg neighbourhood. Some of Berlin’s most innovative culinary entrepreneurs began their restaurants in food trucks, and that includes Gabrielle Jones, founder of the city’s beloved Jones Ice Cream. Jones Ice Cream makes 800 waffle cones a day They’re purists here and don’t offer it willingly, but the holy grail is a scoop of pistachio with vanilla soft serve on top. Everything that goes into the elaborate sundaes is made on-site with fresh ingredients, and no artificial colouring or flavouring. There are now Morelli parlours everywhere from Baghdad to the Philippines, but the family-run mothership on the Kent coast dates back to 1932 – a glorious deco throwback of Formica and pink leatherette booths, with a jukebox and soda fountain. And then there are the three kings I’d travel the length of the peninsula to get a taste of: fior di latte with fresh mint, rosewater, and lavender. It’s a tiny hole-in-the-wall on the piazza of the same name, but it makes up for its unassuming dimensions with a selection of organic, hand-made gelati that run the gamut from the standards (pistachio, hazelnut, coffee) to some creative riffs, like an almond milk-based confection with camomile. It’s a flavour that reminds people of the hardships of eating pine needles when food was scarce: as an ice cream it’s delicious, with a resiny hint of forest after rain. (They even have a tradition where people from all over the country come to watch cows released into the fields after winter.) Jymy’s flavours are Nordic classics: liquorice, lingonberry jam and pine – the last created in 2017 to mark the centenary of Finland’s independence from the Russians.

Horst Neumann of Jymy tells me this is due to a culture of private indulgence and because Finns like to celebrate their excellent dairy. Despite its subarctic climate, Finland is one of the world’s highest consumers of ice cream per capita.